A very important part of Vet care brings you the necessary equipments for your dog safety and comfort, which are discussed in detailed in this post.
Essential Equipments For Your Dog
A very young puppy should wear a soft collar for short periods every day. Always remove the collar when the puppy is unsupervised as it could easily get hung by the collar on a cupboard handle, for instance, or get a paw caught in the collar
Neck size enlarges rapidly as the puppy grows. Care should be taken that the collar is neither too loose nor too tight.
Slip collars which slacken round the neck when the lead is not held taut are unsuitable for use in urban situations.
Many people now choose to let their dog wear a leather harness so that the lead attaches to the centre bone and does not pull on the neck
Choke or check chains have been found to cause extensive bruising on dogs’ necks, and they should not be used. It is not wise to leave a loose neck chain on a dog which is running free outdoors or in the house, as the slack may catch on a projecting object and strangle the dog.
Many breeds look best in their own specific type of collar. Ask the breeder to show you the kind of collar traditionally worn by your breed.
Every dog must by law have some means of identification attached to the collar when outside the home. Check frequently to make certain that engraved discs are still readable and bear the correct address.
It is convenient to use a cylinder containing a slip of paper to bear the address if you are travelling with your dog on holiday Electronic tagging with microchips is now available and can help identify your dog should it be lost or stolen.
Many veterinary surgeons have the equipment needed to ’chip’ animals and many rescue centres and police stations have ’readers’.
Leather collars become hard and uncomfortable if they are allowed to get wet Test the collar and the ’D’ ring often to make sure it is still adequately strong.
Anti-flea collars contain a small amount of highly poisonous chemical. Do not risk compounding the chemical action by spraying the dog with anti-flea spray as well, or by hanging anti-fly strips above its bed or spraying the mom with an insect killer.
Anti-flea collars should be taken from the packet and aired for a day or two before being put on the dog.
Children should not be allowed to handle these collars, either on or off the dog, and the collar must not be allowed to become wet.
If the dog’s skin shows any sign of allergic reaction in the area of the collar, remove it at once and consult a veterinary surgeon.
Anti-flea collars do not have a strong enough fastening to be used with a lead.
The Halti head collar
A modern idea in dog control aids, especially useful for dogs which tend to lunge at Why, is the Haiti head collar, made of strong nylon tape and designed by an animal behaviourist on the principle of the head collar used on unbroken foals.
The control point is under the dog’s chin rather than around the neck The Halti is well tolerated by most dogs and offers the owner greater security when leading a strong animal.
The most important part of a lead is the hook which attached it to the collar. Check the hooks and the ’D’ rings which attach them to the lead frequently.
Also check the stitching on the loop handle. A saddler will re-stitch it for you if it is becoming frayed. Many accidents happen because the collar or the lead broke at the critical moment.
A helpful modem invention is the Flexi-lead, over 30 ft of lead contained in a box-like handle. The length of the lead the dog is allowed is controlled by the handler, so allowing it a lot of freedom or bringing it up close to heel.
This can be a most useful aid in controlling dogs which will not come when called because their attention is held by something which interests them.
Flexi-leads should not be used in towns as accidents have been caused by pedestrians walking into the extended lead.
Every dog should have its own bed, in a quite warm corner of one room in the house. The dog can then be told to go to its bed to prevent it from being a nuisance.
A collapsible wire crate can serve a useful purpose to contain dogs as it is easily erected wherever it is needed, even in the garden and around the swimming pool.
A puppy’s first bed should be a cardboard carton, placed inside the wire crate.
A suitable bed for the next stage is the oval or round rigid polystyrene bed. This is an economical choice as it is easily cleaned, light to move and almost indestructible.
In general, woven wicker baskets are not really suitable as they are most inviting to chew, and can be difficult to clean and disinfect properly.
However many owners find them very convenient especially for dogs of the smaller breeds. If such baskets are used they should be thoroughly scrubbed regularly and put out in the sunshine to dry and air.
For older dogs a bean bag filled with polystyrene beads offers warmth, comfort and support, and this type of bed does not harbour parasites.
Buy one with the strongest inner cover you can find, which allows for topping up with extra beads, and which also has a washable top cover.
Crates for dogs
Call it a dog crate, or an indoor kennel, or even a cage, this portable house is considered part of the vital equipments for your dog which is one of the 20th century’s best inventions for dogs.
Allow the puppy free access in and out of the crate and praise him when he goes in voluntarily.
When the puppy is used to the crate it can be left with the door shut for up to an hour at a time and the pup taken out at regular intervals.
Most dogs will soon come to regard the crate as their den and will happily it in their owners’ absence.
The door should be left open if the dog is to be left alone for any length of time.
The dog’s natural instincts are to find a den, a place which offers protection, and we have yet to meet a dog that does not take instinctively to a crate even if not encouraged until middle to old age.
The use of a wire mesh crate to train new puppies and restrain older dogs where necessary is standard practice in the United States and is now beginning to find favour in the UK.
Breeders, exhibitors, veterinary surgeons and groomers already use crates as a matter of course.
Crates are made of wire panels that fold down to the size of a suitcase for carrying. Most models have a metal tray floor and they are quick to erect.
Buy the size your dog will need when adult: if necessary partition off some space with cardboard. Leave the crate door open to start with.
Put in soft bedding (the breeder may have given you a piece of used bedding with the litter smell on it). Show the pup that this is his bed, feeding place and is where his toys are.
The door can be shut when the pup goes in to sleep. This helps in house-training,as few puppies willingly soil their beds. When your pup wakes and whines to attract your attention, you know you should take him outside.
It is more constructive to prevent the puppy soiling indoors than correcting him after an accident has occurred.
When you are busy in the kitchen and handling hot dishes, you and your puppy will be much safer if he is in his crate. Being in the crate is much more friendly than shutting the puppy in a separate room.
As crates are portable, it is easy to take it into the sitting room when you have guests. The puppy can be the centre of attention with no risk of being hurt or of annoying non-doggy people.
Put the crate in a shady place in the garden when unfamiliar children come to play or when you are using the swimming pool (if you are lucky enough to own one).
The crate will serve the dog all his life: on holidays, when you go visiting and when your dog is ill and needs protection, rest and nursing.
If you need to convince yourself how user-friendly a dog crate is, you may be able to borrow one from your breeder or veterinary surgeon.
Dogs know instinctively that this is the nearest thing to a primitive den that will come their way in the domestic setting.
Use the crate sensibly. Do not confine a pup in it for more than two hours at a time: puppies need frequent periods of activity as well as plenty of sleep.
Try to be in the same room as the crated pup as much as possible so it does not associate separation anxiety with being in the crate. Ensure that the crated dog has enough air but is not in a draught and that the crate is shaded from direct sunlight in summer.
The most hygienic and work-saving blankets for dogs are those made of porous polyester fur fabric which is warm, long-lasting, very easily washed and quickly dried.
Dogs will not chew this fabric as they do woollen rugs. The blankets are white or pale beige, so you can easily see when it is soiled. As these items are easily transportable, you can train your dog to sit upon it wherever it may be laid.
This can be very useful when travelling or visiting friends. Manufacturers advertise in the canine press, or the blankets can be obtained through pet shops.
After choosing the right dog breed for your family, also the know the essential equipments for your dog and always provide maximum care for your pets.